Tokyo is a modern city — one of the most modern, in fact. Robots, enormous pedestrian crossings, high-speed trains and reclaimed land aren’t the only ways in which the place is future facing; Tokyo’s architecture exemplifies innovative contemporary design and living. 

Much of the metropolis was destroyed during World War II, resulting in houses and businesses being rebuilt rapidly in the years that followed. Visitors often complain that the buildings look like uniform concrete blocks and that the city is drab without its neon lights, but that is not true. Tokyo is full of impressive architectural feats — impossible shapes and combinations, buildings that take the tiny house concept to the next level, and bold experiments. It’s all there — you just need to know where to look. 

Omotesando

Japan has produced a number of Pritzker Architecture Prize winners over the years, but perhaps none as renowned as Toyo Ito, who scooped the award in 2013. His works can be found all over the country, including in Tokyo. The Tod’s building in the luxury shopping district of Omotesando, a stone’s throw from the hustle and bustle of Harajuku and Yoyogi Park, is a notable example of Ito’s work and well worth a stroll-by. 

In the same area, you’ll find many other architectural projects by different designers, including the swanky Audi Forum building, the hive-like Tokyu Plaza, and Prada’s flagship store. This walking guide is a good way to take them all in.

Shinjuku

Shinjuku is a hub of business, government and shopping, with skyscrapers lining the horizon. In the middle of these unnervingly high but sturdy buildings, which are worth a peek on their own, is the Mode Gakuen Cocoon building, designed by architect Paul Noritaka Tange (son of the super famous Kenzo Tange). It’s in most snapshots of Shinjuku, and with good reason — it looks like it has been transplanted there from a far-off planet.

Shinbashi

You might think that Shinbashi is a boring business area, but hidden in its depths is a legendary building that may not be around for all that much longer. The Nakagin Capsule Tower, unveiled by Kisho Kurokawa in 1972, is the stuff that science fiction is made of. A block of 140 tiny flats, each formerly a self-functioning cube, Nakagin was popular as a residential and office facility until occupants started to find the conditions too cramped, dilapidated and dangerous (read: asbestos). The iconic example of the Japanese Metabolism movement has been slated for and saved from demolition multiple times, but, as of the time of writing, still stands. 

Honorary mentions

Other spots to go have a gander at include the layered Ebisu East Gallery (it looks like part of it has been peeled off), the National Museum of Western Art in Ueno (a Modernist gem by French-Swiss architect Le Corbusier), the wacky, multi-coloured Reversible Destiny Lots in Mitaka (uneven floors, crazy lighting, confrontation with one’s own mortality), St Mary’s Cathedral in Bunkyo-ku (a modern take on a church by Kenzo Tange), and the 21_21 Design Sight (a design museum by Tadao Ando, located just behind Tokyo Midtown). There’s also that kindergarten that’s been built around a tree. Oh, and did we mention Tokyo Skytree, the 634m structure that just about juts into outer space?

Japan’s modern architecture reflects a wide range of influences from around the world, and includes the works of well-known Western architects themselves. As an example, American architect Frank Lloyd Wright designed a number of important buildings in Japan, including the old Imperial Hotel in Tokyo. Sadly, only a few remain. These include the lobby of the hotel, and Jiyu Gakuen Myonichikan, which is in Ikebukuro.

Like the topic of traditional Japanese architecture, we could fill an entire series on the subject of modern Japanese architecture — and that’s in Tokyo alone. We don’t have the space to do that here, but we encourage you to get out and see what you can find. A slow meander around your local neighborhood will undoubtedly reveal a myriad of strange and wonderful designs, tucked between standard-issue houses, shrines and parks. 

Those who are exceptionally passionate about all things architecture might want to swing by the Archi-Depot, a museum dedicated to architectural models.

By Carey Finn

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